Woke up on day 4 with a breakfast of, among other things, Corn Flakes with sweet cream. Peru does it right!
I walked through the Plaza de Armas to find a huge mass of people. Besides being Sunday, which Latin America takes VERY seriously, there is apparently some festival or event going on. I met a Venezuelan couple in the plaza that had just arrived and they were similarly bewildered.
I continued on toward the Rosapata market where I was hoping to find a bus out to Tambomachay. The market was bustling:
The bus arrived, but it was full so I had to wait. The second bus was also full, but they made room for me. And a few more people. And then some more people. It was so crowded, I'm glad I learned in Thailand how to give up my concept of private or personal space.
Tambomachay was a welcome big, open space, but unfortunately I arrived at the same time as multiple buses full of tour groups. Unavoidable it seems. A little frustrated, I started down a path up a steep hill and off into the wilderness. I'm not sure whether or not it was allowed or legal, but the path kept going and so did I.
I probably followed the trail back about three miles, until I found what I thought was a bridge across the river. It was in fact definitely not a bridge, but instead some kind of wire or pipe, so I had to scramble down the steep hill, across the rocks in the river, and up the other side.
Walking back I found a small cave/ruins. Incan or not I thought it was cool, and I chose to eat my lunch there. I found some flowers in a nook in the cave so I don't think I was the first to do so.
After my lunch I walked back to the entrance, waded through the gaggle of tourists, and started walking to Cusco.
The walk back was fun. I walked along the road for about three miles, past roadside homes and stores. Scared a family of pigs. Eventually the path diverged from the road (thankfully, as Cusqueñan drivers have a need for speed) and I walked along a path with a whole bunch of people on horseback.
I met two Peruvian couples also walking who were very interested in Alaska. The guy named Joel told me a little about life in Northern Peru and how beautiful it is. Another recurring theme is apparently Northern Peru is the place to be.
I was back on my own soon enough and ended up at another ruin called the Temple of the Sun:
Not much further I found the same path I walked the day before and continued on into Cusco. Here I hopped on a bus to Ollantaytambo where I would stay the night before going to Machu Picchu. I got my own seat for the 90 min ride and talked to a 15yr old girl named Michelle from Colorado who regularly visits family in Peru and firmly believes she never travels. She told me a lot about the little towns in Peru, how they are more poor and less fun, and how schools are split between genders.
Ollantaytambo was beautiful coming in, and I spent about an hour wandering around. That may or may not have been because I couldn't find my hotel and was too proud to ask for directions in the tiny town. I finally found it, and was surprised by the simple aesthetic beauty of it. Inside on the third floor one wall opened to a balcony where I could see the sky, mountains and ruins between the clotheslines full of drying towels and sheets. Pretty cool.
After it got dark Henri, the co-owner of the place, came up and turned off the lights so I could see the stars ("estrellas"). I know Alaska has good views, but WOW. Besides seeing the Southern Cross, which was new for me, I also got to see Mars, Jupiter, Rigel, Virgo and the Milky Way. I haven't seen that density of stars I think ever, even in remote NE Colorado. Very cool.
After stargazing I ate a delicious meal of Misso Alpaca (alpaca steak) and went to sleep exhausted. My last thoughts were about the upcoming hike and how I should have put a day of rest in there somewhere. Meh.
That must be amazing to see planets like that. I'm enjoying following your travel blog. Good for you for being brave enough to do this. I went to England by myself when I was 21, and lived there for a few months. It makes a person learn in ways that last a lifetime.
ReplyDelete